Nothing slows a project down faster than the county rejecting your permit
One day you’re lined up to pour concrete, the next you’re back at the drawing board because something didn’t meet code. Most rejections happen for the same few reasons, and they’re all avoidable.
Within the last 15 years of helping homeowners and businesses across the Southeast put up garages, barns, workshops and other commercial buildings, we’ve seen where projects get tripped up. Here’s what you need to know before you file your permit.
Zoning Comes First
Before you think about concrete or colors, make sure your land is zoned for what you want to build. A lot of people assume it’s fine, only to learn later that their lot won’t allow it.
Counties look at:
- How far the building sits from property lines (setbacks)
- Maximum lot coverage
- Height limits
- Whether metal structures are allowed in that zone
Example: A homeowner in North Carolina tried to set a 40×60 garage on a residential lot. Looked good on paper, but zoning flagged it for both height and side setbacks. That one issue pushed the project back by two months.
Always check zoning maps or call your planning office before you order drawings. A small call can save you weeks of frustration.
Incomplete or Generic Plans
A hand sketch or generic manufacturer drawing won’t get approved. Inspectors want engineered plans that show how the building meets local code, stamped by a professional licensed in your state.
- A scaled site plan showing building placement
- Foundation details with footer depth, rebar, and anchor bolts
- Framing details with steel gauge, spacing, and local wind/snow loads
- Elevations from every side
- Engineer’s seal
If the reviewer can’t see how the building stands up to code, they won’t move it forward.
Loads That Don’t Match Local Standards
Every region has its own requirements for snow, wind, and seismic forces. If your drawings don’t spell these out correctly, they’ll get disapproved.
Counties in the Southeast take wind and snow loads seriously. In coastal Carolina or Georgia, you may need 130+ mph wind ratings. In the mountains of Tennessee or Virginia, snow load requirements often decide whether your drawings get approved. Therefore, always confirm your site’s official load data with the building department before ordering drawings.
Quick code note: Most counties in our region follow IBC 2021 and use ASCE 7-16/22 for wind and snow. Put your design wind speed and ground snow load on the title sheet. If you’re near a mapped flood area, note the FEMA FIRM zone and the finished-floor elevation. It tells the reviewer you’ve done your homework.
Site Prep and Drainage Problems
Permits aren’t just about the building — they cover the land it’s built upon.
- Grading and how water drains
- Driveway and access tie-ins
- Soil stability or flood-zone concerns
Example: In North Carolina, we’ve seen inspectors reject a garage slab because it sat too low compared to grade. The owner had to haul in fill dirt, raise the pad, and resubmit the application. Weeks lost, all because drainage wasn’t shown on the original plan.
Show grading and runoff paths on your site plan. It’s a lot cheaper to fix it on paper than after concrete is poured.
Energy Code Requirements
Building codes today are stricter than they used to be. Even for a steel garage, you may have to show insulation and energy details, depending on size and use.
- Insulation R-values
- Vapor barriers and air sealing
- HVAC efficiency if the building will be conditioned
If you’re planning to finish the inside later, note that on your drawings. It can keep the inspector from sending you back for revisions.
HOA or Neighborhood Restrictions
Even if the county signs off, your HOA or a historic overlay can still block the project.
Common HOA rules: Some want specific finishes, like a short brick knee wall or trim that matches the house, along with limits on height, footprint, and placement.
What to send: Simple front/side elevation sketches, your color choices, planned roof pitch, where it will sit on the lot, and any basic screening (shrubs or fence) if they ask for it.
Get HOA approval in writing before you spend money on engineered plans. It’s one of the most common surprises that stalls projects in subdivisions.
How to Keep Your Permit Moving
Here’s the same list we give our clients before they file:
- Call zoning first and confirm land use.
- Work with an engineer licensed in your state.
- Submit full, detailed drawings that leave nothing out.
- Match the snow, wind, and seismic data for your exact site.
- Show grading, drainage, and utilities on your site plan.
- Get HOA sign-off if your property is under one.
- List your code basis (local IBC 2021 + ASCE 7) on the drawings — reviewers look for it.
Why Permits Get Rejected (and the Fast Fix)
| Reason | What Reviewers Flag | Fix Before Filing |
|---|---|---|
| Zoning or setbacks | Too close to lines, over height/coverage, or zone doesn’t allow metal buildings | Call planning and verify zone, setbacks, height, and lot coverage before you order drawings. |
| Incomplete plans | No site plan, thin details, no engineer’s seal | Get a full engineered set sealed in-state — site plan, foundation, framing, elevations, and an anchor/bolt schedule. |
| Loads don’t match | Wrong wind or snow for your address | Call the plans desk for your design wind and ground snow. Design to ASCE 7-16/22 and list the numbers on the title sheet. |
| Drainage or floodplain issues | Slab below grade, runoff not shown, flood zone not addressed | Show grading arrows, swales, and finished floor elevation. Check FEMA FIRM maps and note the flood-zone status. |
| Wrong use or occupancy | Plans say “storage” but details look like “shop” or conditioned space | State the intended use on the title sheet and make sure details match that use. |
| HOA restrictions | Finishes, color, roof pitch, or placement that don’t meet HOA rules | Get HOA written approval (finishes, colors, pitch, placement) before you pay for engineered drawings. |
Permit FAQs for Metal Garages
Do I need a permit for a metal garage in North Carolina?
Yes, in most counties. If it’s anchored, on a slab, or has utilities, plan on a permit. Show setbacks, a PE-sealed set, drainage on the site plan, and ASCE 7 wind/snow. Call the county for your wind and snow numbers and put them on the title sheet.
Pro tip: Call the county and ask, “What’s the design wind and ground snow for this address?” Write those two numbers on the title sheet. That alone prevents half the redlines.
Can an HOA still say no after the county approves it?
Yes, they can. Many ask for a brick knee wall or matching trim, certain colors, roof pitch, and placement rules. Get written HOA approval before ordering engineered plans.
Pro tip: Send them front/side sketches, color picks, roof pitch, and the spot on the lot. Get written approval before you pay for engineered plans — it’s the cheapest insurance against a redesign.
Final Word: Build Smart the First Time
Every reason for a permit rejection is preventable if you handle it up front. Skipping steps costs time and money, and in some cases, it can also delay the approval of financing.
At American Metal Garages, we don’t pull permits for you — but we’ve walked hundreds of customers through the process across NC, SC, VA, WV, TN, and GA. If you’re unsure what your county needs, or just want straight answers before you file, our building experts are ready to guide you.
No pressure, no sales talk — just clear advice from people who’ve been through it before.
Have a question about your project? Get in touch with American Metal Garages at 800-975-7709, and let’s get it right the first time.
